glowingfish

The end of 2025 and the first days of 2026 have been spent in Antarctica. The crossing of the notorious Drake Passage was mostly smooth sailing, a "Drake Lake" event. There was the delightful imaginary point where the Pacific, Atlantic, and Southern Oceans meet, and much of the Passage's reputation comes from the Antarctic Convergence where the warmer waters of the former meet the colder waters of the latter, mixed with often strong winds funnelled from South America. The weather is unpredictable, and there's a lot of it, but this is the best and safest time of year to attempt the journey. According to tradition, crossing Cape Horn also entitles one to a particular sailor's tattoo; something I shall attend to on my return. Most of the journey was cool, hovering around zero, overcast and with light snowfall, although one day it did drop to -9C with the wind-chill accounted for.

As for Antarctica itself, we only ventured but a few hundred kilometers along the northern tip of the peninsula, around Anvers Island, through the Gerlache Strait, via the Bransfield Strait, up to Deception Island and the South Shetlands, then King Geoge Island, and ultimately to Elephant Island (named after the seal, not for the Afro-Asiatic Elephantidae family). This is the most populated region of Antarctica, not only humans from the numerous bases of multiple countries scattered among the islands and peninsula proper, but also with playful penguins (chinstrap and gentoo were particularly prevalent), fur seals, and numerous seabirds (albatrosses, petrels, skua, shag, and gulls). The area is especially rich in krill, zooplankton, and phytoplankton from which Earthly life ultimately depends on for food and oxygen. Their presence also resulted in numerous sightings of whales, especially humpback whales, and the occasional orca pod. As far as the humback is concerned, this is the whale capital of the world. We were also visited by staff from the Port Lockroy UK Antarctic Heritage Trust for an informative presentation.

Back in the Passage, and with more than a day open sea voyage ahead of us before reaching Port Stanley in the Falklands (or Islas Malvinas), one final and appropriate Antarctic action was required - to start a game of "Beyond the Mountains of Madness", the famed (at least among a certain crowd) sequel to H.P. Lovecraft's short novel, "At The Mountains of Madness". At sea pastimes aside, visiting Antarctica is the fulfilment of a childhood dream, spurred by Scholastic Books and primary school atlases. The numerous on-board lectures on ecology, geology, history, and the curious sovereignty claims were accessible and informative, although I think they could do with a climatology session! The scenery and wildlife were truly beautiful and grand. I have developed an even greater sense of wonder, concern, and knowledge of the world's coldest, driest, and highest continent with its fragile ecology. If I ever return, and I hope to do so, it will be in a professional capacity.